Aleutian Wilderness- Wilderness Exploration- Hotsprings and Geysers
Wildlife basecamp adventure at Geyser Bight and Hotsprings Cove on Umnak Island
• Dates: July 19-26
• Region: Southwestern Alaska, Aleutian Islands, Umnak Island
• Cost: $3600 From Unalaska/ Dutch Harbor. Alaska Airlines and Penn Air both fly to Dutch Harbor.
Sketch of the trip…
Geyser Bight on Umnak Island is a magical land of hotsprings, mud pots and geysers all within sight of the incomparably rich Bering Sea. It is the most geothermally active area in Alaska and one of very few places in the world with active geysers. The Aleutians are so rich in life and history that the hot water boiling to the surface and the long steaming beaches are only the icing on the cake. Umnak Island, west of Dutch Harbor, is a remarkably remote and rarely visited island in the eastern Aleutians. Other than the Aleut village of Nikolski on the western end of the island and a lonely ranch at the abandoned Fort Glen, Umnak is wilderness within the Alaska Maritime Wildlife Refuge. Buffeted by storms and cloaked in thick green vegetation, Umnak rises steeply from the Pacific and Bering Seas, providing breeding habitat for sea-birds and marine mammals.
Okmok Caldera, which erupted violently in July of 2008 dominates the east end of the island; two steep and dramatic volcanoes dominate the west end. In between lies Geyser Bight, Hotsprings Cove, and an area of rocky ridges, alpine glaciers, lush verdant valleys, and black sand beaches. After being dropped off on the beach we will have most of a week to enjoy this exotic destination. The hotsprings and geysers heated by nearby volcanic activity are scattered throughout the area. There are pools to lounge in with a bubbling creek to cool off. Around each bend of the creek is a new wonder, some of the geysers are capable of throwing rocks meters into the air!
When not gawking at the geothermal attractions we can relish in the flora and fauna. The mild maritime climate creates an explosion of flowers each summer, head-high beach grasses and mats of berries. Without bears to prey upon them, the island's reindeer population flourishes and we are likely to see them grazing on the mountainsides. Seabirds and terrestrial birds are everywhere including Asian migrants rarely seen in North America. The weather in the region is legendary. The temperatures are not extreme but the wind can be extraordinarily strong, whipping the sea into a maelstrom; rain and fog are common. For some the dramatic weather and the ever-changing sky are reason enough to travel to these little rocky islands in the middle of the enormous ocean.
This is an exploratory trip for us, though we know others who have hiked extensively on Umnak and we have extensive experience in the region. This is an extremely remote area almost never visited by tourists and we are eager to discover its beauty with you. Because of the fickle weather, we have a plan A, B, and C, but we may need to develop plans D through G. We have numerous contacts in the area and a wealth of experience leading groups in remote areas. If delayed by weather we will find interesting and exciting things to do while we wait for an opportunity to travel. Travel insurance is highly recommended.
What follows is a general flow of the trip. Expect the unexpected and prepare to be flexible.
Day 0: Meet in Unalaska Dutch Harbor for a pre-trip meeting to ensure everyone is prepared for our week in the wilds.
Day 1: Spend the morning at the Museum of the Aleutians. Our flight leaves for Nikolski in the afternoon weather permitting. We will spend the night in Nikolski, either camped out near the beach or at the Ugludax Lodge (Lodging not included in trip price). There are nice walks to take, excellent birding, and archeological sights nearby. Nikolski has been continuously inhabited for 10,000 years!
Day 2: Depart Nikolski by boat heading for Inanudak Bay and Geyser Bight. Wildlife will be everywhere, from orca and gray whales to sea lions and a host of sea birds including puffins, shearwaters and perhaps albatross too! After 2 or 3 hours on the water we arrive in Paradise. The beaches steam, reindeer graze the hillsides, there are no bears to worry about, perfect beach camping and hot springs to soak in.
Days 3-7: Explore and enjoy. We can hike long and hard or just amble down the beach. Fumeroles and mudpots dot the hillsides, flowers will be blooming, creeks are full of fish. We could don backpacks and head off on an overnight excursion to the Pacific side of the island, or poke around marveling at the variety of driftwood. The time is ours to enjoy. We will have a solid, wind stable camp, quality food and a host of ideas about how to spend our time.
Day 8: By mid-morning we should see the boat heading our way. Once aboard, we head east past Fort Glen through the rich feeding grounds of Umnak Pass and then along the steep and rocky coast of Unalaska Island arriving in Dutch Harbor very late in the day. The boat trip will be a trip in and of itself, full of wildlife and adventure.
Day 9: Reacquaint yourself with civilization and enjoy your last day in the Aleutians on your own.
Included in the price of the trip:
Transportation beyond Unalaska/ Dutch Harbor.
Outstanding guide service.
Wholesome, delicious, and mostly-organic food while in the wilderness.
Stoves, cooking & eating utensils.
Repair and safety equipment.
Not included in the price of the trip:
Non-camp lodging.
Non-camp meals.
Personal clothing, and footwear.
Sleeping bag & sleeping pad.
Three-season tent.
Large waterproof dry bag (one with shoulder strap recommended).
Waterproof camera case.
Fishing gear and fishing license.
Gratuity for guide(s).
Arctic Wild rents high quality gear at affordable rates. Rental gear includes:
Three-season tents
Sleeping bags
Sleeping pads
Rubber rain gear bibs
Rubber rain gear jackets
Rubber boots
Large dry bag
An Equipment List is provided upon registration.
Weather & Bugs: No Bears, No Bugs, Wind and storms and sun and rain and fog maybe all in the same day
Suggested Reading: Moments Rightly Placed, Ray Hudson; Where the Sea breaks its Back, Cory Ford; Birthplace of the Winds, Jon Bowermaster; http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF19/1924.html.