Why I Love the Kongakut River

By Michael Wald Co-Owner and Guide

Kongakut River Alaska

The Kongakut River in northeastern Alaska is one of my favorite rafting trips of all time. Most trips on the Kongakut River, and there are quite a few, are on the upper canyon section in June. The Kongakut that I love is the part that sees very few people and lots of caribou. By starting in the mountains and paddling to the Arctic coast a visitor to the Kongakut River gets to experience the great variety of wildlife and landscapes that the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge (ANWR) has to offer. Nowhere else in Arctic Alaska do the mountains come so close to the sea, allowing us to hike rocky alpine ridges for the first three days of the trip and walk on the sea-ice a week later. While up in the mountains we regularly see Dall Sheep and out on the barrier islands where the trip ends we sometimes see polar bear tracks. The diversity of wildlife is amazing and some years the sheer numbers of wildlife are remarkable too.

Kongakut River Rafting Trip

I remember a trip in 2001, when we climbed a ridge right at the edge of the mountains and looked north out across the vast coastal plain towards the sea. Far below us we saw what looked like a line of ants marching east along the mountain front towards the Canadian border. We did our best to count the brown dots far below, knowing that we were seeing the majority of the Porcupine Caribou Herd migrating across the coastal plain. The next morning we packed up the rafts and headed down the Kongakut hoping to catch the herd as they swam the river. I fully expected them to be long gone and to find the sand bars covered in tracks and droppings but without a caribou in sight. But much to my delight, when paddled out of the mountains we saw thousands of caribou resting and feeding along the Kongakut’s gravel bars. There were big bulls with heavy antlers, tired looking cows shedding last winters’ coat and hundreds of the tawny, spindly, week old calves trying to keep up with their mothers. We camped just down river from the main river crossing and got to watch caribou swim the river as the last groups migrated through while we relaxed in camp.

Kongakut River Caribou

There are many other stories about paddling the Kongakut; stories of eagles hunting caribou, herds of musk oxen thundering across the tundra,  great skeins of ducks flying low over the sea-ice while watching the midnight sun. We have stories of wolverines in camp, watching foxes hunting ducks, finding old Eskimo artifacts on the beach. Too many stories to fit on a page.

If you really want to hear the stories and have some good Kongakut stories of your own, join us for our Kongakut to the Coast trip June 19-28.

Kongakut Rafting

Bear Safety

By Michael Wald- Co-Owner and Guide for Arctic Wild

Alaska Bears

Another study was released last week showing that common sense and knowledge of animal behavior are more important in avoiding injury from bears than are firearms. As an Alaska guide service that has taught hundreds of people appropriate behavior in Bear Country we are glad to see data supporting our belief that keeping your eyes open and mind alert for bears is the most significant action that we can take in avoiding aggressive encounters with bears of all species.

When the researchers looked at aggressive bear encounters they found no statistical difference in outcome for people with guns and without guns. They did find that bears who encountered people with guns didn’t fare so well. In other words; if a bears acts aggressively towards a person with a gun, the bear gets hurt, but the person is no more likely to escape injury.

The study also concluded that there wasn’t much difference in the outcome of an encounter based on the type or caliber of the gun. The authors also noted that only individuals who had significant experience with firearms at close quarters were able to use them as an effective defense.

So will Arctic Wild guides continue to carry firearms on most of our trips? Yes. But we will also continue to educate ourselves and our clients about avoiding conflicts with bears and we will continue to issue every person on our trips with a pepper-spray canister which have proven more effective in deterring bears than firearms.

http://wildlifenews.co.uk/2012/guns-offer-no-increased-protection-against-bears/

Or the full text of the Wildlife Society Article HERE.

Woolly-Bear Caterpillar

By Dan Ritzman- Arctic Wild Guide, Conservation Leader and Lover of Caterpillars.

Arctic Caterpillar, the Woolly-Bear

Woolly Bear Caterpillar on Gloved Hand

I have spent a good part of the last 2 decades talking to people about what makes the Arctic great. I have given hundreds of lectures, and toured any number of decision makers and media types around the Arctic and I always endeavor to mention the woolly-bear caterpillar and how beautifully adapted to its environment it is. When I am guiding trips for Arctic Wild one of the highlights is finding a woolly-bear on a hike. I get everyone to kneel down in the tundra and look at this tiny creature crawling amongst the cotton grass, forget-me-knots, and moss campion. Now don’t get me wrong I would never neglect the hundreds of thousands of caribou, or the other symbols of wilderness like the wolves and wolverines, but the magic of the Arctic comes in all sizes.

The arctic woolly-bear caterpillars are unique in their combination of fascinating adaptations to the polar extremes. They spend nearly 90% of their life frozen and only about 5% feeding on the tundra during the month of June; the remainder is spent in summer “hibernation” inside protective cocoons. Seriously, they spend 90% of their life frozen. This alone makes these little guys fascinating, but they are also the longest lived caterpillar species on the planet. Wooly-bears in the Alaskan Arctic can “live” for 7 years and the ones they have studied in the Canadian high Arctic can live to be 13 years old. Think about it! When one comes across a woolly-bear on a hike across the tundra this tiny “cute” little caterpillar has spent  7 years of freezing and thawing, and freezing and thawing, alive. This seems to be the stuff of a science fiction movie, but it is simply one of the truly wonderful adaptations that allow life to exist in the far north.

In the early 2000s when the Bush Administration had their sights set on drilling in the Arctic Refuge, I had what I still consider my greatest media summer. I was able to get the woolly-bear mentioned in stories that ran in Newsweek magazine, the Los Angeles Times, and Canada’s Globe and Mail.

Soon this amazing story will get even more attention. The Discovery Channel will be airing Frozen Planet, a seven part documentary produced in conjunction with the BBC. My organization, the Sierra Club, is partnering with Discovery to use Frozen Planet to spread the word about the need to conserve the special places and creatures of the Arctic and I have been lucky enough to get a sneak peak at some of the episodes. The episode titled “Spring” features truly amazing footage of the woolly-bear shot over the course of a number of seasons as it feeds, hibernates, freezes and thaws. I urge you to seek out Frozen Planet and see for yourself how amazing life in the earth’s freezer can be. Better yet, if you join Arctic Wild on a trip like the Kongakut to the Coast or Caribou Base Camp, you will have the chance to hold one of the world’s most perfectly adapted creatures in the palm of your hand.

To find out more about Frozen Planet and the Sierra Club’s efforts to protect America’s Arctic check out this link: www.action.sierraclub.org/frozenplanet