Drilling in the Arctic Refuge is not the answer.

By Dan Ritzman, Alaska program director for the Sierra Club’s Resilient Habitats Campaign and guide for Arctic Wild.

Just one day after a drilling well explosion on Alaska’s North Slope, the House of Representatives voted to open 1.5 million acres of the pristine Arctic National Wildlife Refuge to oil and gas drilling. Unable to find enough votes to pass drilling measures as part of a comprehensive transportation bill, House leadership has resorted to political gimmicks to further the agenda of Big Oil.No Drilling in ANWR

The Refuge is home to the greatest diversity of animals of any protected area in the entire circumpolar region, including polar bears, caribou and birds from every state. For the past 50 years our country has remained committed to protecting this unparalleled area. Its wonders have been recognized for centuries by Alaska Natives like the Gwich’in and Inupiat people who still rely on its wildlife for survival.

Opening this special area to drilling is a huge risk for highly speculative and insufficient revenues. To understand what’s at stake you need only look as far as Prudhoe Bay, where less than 100 miles west of the Arctic Refuge drilling has created one of the world’s largest industrial complexes. Hundreds of spills occur in the area each year polluting waterways, damaging the land and harming wildlife. A similar fate awaits the Refuge if this bill is made into law—all to generate revenue that will come too late to fund this bill and won’t be enough to fill the funding gap.

But the House didn’t stop there. They also voted to offer up millions of acres of protected offshore federal waters in the Atlantic, Pacific and Arctic Oceans and Alaska’s Bristol Bay to the oil industry. The fishery in Bristol Bay alone generates billions of dollars annually and communities all along the Arctic coast depend on whales, fish and other ocean bounty for subsistence. A major spill could leave oil in these waters for years. The shifting ice floes, sub-zero temperatures, and months of darkness make an oil spill in Arctic waters impossible to clean up.

I have been fortunate in my life to spend time in America’s Arctic in northern Alaska. This remote region is one of the wildest spots left on the globe. I have experienced first-hand the harshness and fragility of this special place which is unlike any other. I’ve watched walrus gather on ice floes, puffins “fly” through the water, and polar bears prowl the ice edge. While watching more than 100,000 caribou move across the tundra followed by wolves and grizzly bears I experienced an inkling of what Lewis and Clark must have felt as they encountered the large bison herds in the Great Plains. I have traveled with Alaska Native people, who have lived on these lands and waters for hundreds of generations, and listened as they describe their connections to this land and the importance of these animals to their culture and subsistence. Some places are too special to drill and the Arctic Refuge is one of them.

Though the oil industry continues to downplay its abysmal spill record, the most recent well explosion reminds us that drilling is a dangerous and dirty business. New drilling comes with a lot of risk, but little benefit for the transportation bill. We must invest in transportation, but we don’t have to threaten our nation’s wildest areas or rely on unsound financing to do so. Congress should be looking for ways to make our cars cleaner and more efficient and expand our transportation choices, not making us more dependent on Big Oil.

Dan Ritzman Polar Bear

The preceding commentary was first published in The Hill and in Alaska Dispatch.

The views expressed by the author are enthusiastically endorsed by Arctic Wild.

Little Bird- Big Migration

I love arctic Alaska, but there is a bird in the news that displays unmatched devotion to the tundra.

The northern wheatear looks like a cross between a robin and a shrike, and we see them on high rocky ridges throughout the Brooks Range. Their distinctive call and undulating flight are nearly ubiquitous in the gravely high country above the Kongakut River and their flashy tail pattern elicits interest from even the most casual birder. For years I have told everyone who would listen that these diminutive birds spent the summer in Alaska and winter as far away as Afghanistan. I’m more often accused of hyperbole than  understatement, but recent research has shown that wheatears travel as far as sub-Saharan Africa on a 9,000 mile journey and travel on average 180 miles each day.

This summer when I watch them courting and singing on the rocky tundra ridges, my appreciation and admiration will be deepened by the knowledge of their astonishing annual migration.

Typical wheatear habitat.

Typical wheatear habitat

 

Group Shelters for Alaska Camping

“Cook tents” or “group shelters” form the center of our camps. In the Arctic and the Aleutians, a place to get out of the weather is critical and these big tents make a good place to eat, cook, and relax. Pyramid style tents are versatile and quick to set-up, but if the weather is really ferocious a dome is a better shape.

The best group shelters for Alaska.

Cook Tent1) A local Fairbanks company has been making custom tents for us for years. Apocalypse Design has worked with us to refine a pyramid shaped tent and after several versions we are thrilled with the tent. With a 10′ x 10′ footprint this floor-less pyramid tent (base on a mega-mid tent) is plenty big for a party of 6 to comfortably sit. And with the addition of 2 foot tall walls the tent occupants are warm even when the wind howls. At 9 pounds including a pole this is the most versatile and dependable tent we have.

2) Extreme Weather Tent for AlaskaAs much as we like the Apocalypse 10 X 10 pyramid, when the wind really howls like it can in the Aleutian Islands we need something built for a hurricane. There are several tents built for mountaineering expeditions that also work very well for high latitude trips. Our favorite is the aptly named Mtn Hardware Space Station.  It isn’t indestructible but we have put it to the test and it provides a cocoon of  protection even in the fiercest of Alaska’s storms.

 

 

3)Caribou and tent Though not as wind-worthy as the Space Station nor as light and versatile as the pyramid tents, the MSR Board Room is a great tent for autumn trips like the Kongakut River when nights are long and cool and we are expecting to spend some time “indoors”. It is the roomiest of the tents we use. With nearly vertical walls, multiple doors, and panels which can be moved or removed, this tent can be configured for almost any purpose. Dubbed the “Chuck-wagon” this warm and spacious tent is unfortunately not currently available. Hopefully MSR will bring this winning tent back on the market before ours wear out. For now they make a smaller version called the Backcountry Barn.

 

4) Tent in snowAnd lastly is the classic “cook tent” from Black Diamond. Small light and elegantly simple the Mega-mid is the perfect shelter for when you want to go light and keep it simple. Now that they make mega-mids with carbon poles and gossamer thin fabric, we even sometimes take them on day hikes for use as emergency shelters. It is hard to beat a classic, but in shedding pounds the tents have definitely lost some durability.

There are lots of other tents on the market and we certainly haven’t tried them all. Leave a comment below and tell us which tents you like.

Alaska Adventurer Passes on

Ken Quade died this October in his home state of Wisconsin. But I’d bet his heart was still in Alaska.

The first Brooks Range trip I ever guided was a backpacking trip in the Arctic Refuge and it was just Ken and I. At 73 he wasn’t real fast, but as a new guide I realized that I had a lot to learn from a man who had worked across the state and who had been on more than 40 Brooks Range trips at that time. Ron Yarnell who owned the business before we did, took Ken on more than 50 guided trips during their many years traveling together in the Brooks Range and the Wrangell Mountains. Ken liked nothing better than to climb up to some rocky look-out and watch big Dall Sheep grazing. He also loved to talk politics and philosophy late into the arctic night.

I will always remember Ken as my first client and as the perennial record holder for the most guided trips in the arctic. Happy trails, Ken.

Dall Sheep

Arctic Reading

Adventure vicariously with these great arctic books

by Michael Engelhard

The days are getting longer but snowdrifts still cover the environs of my hometown, Nome. There is plenty of time to curl up on the couch with a good book, dreaming of next summer’s trips. I’ve put together a short list of materials that allows you to adventure vicariously in Alaska’s arctic.

After three years of guiding for Arctic Wild, I’ll be taking the summer off to realize a long-held dream: a Brooks Range traverse from the Yukon border to the Bering Sea coast. So, in addition to planning the logistics, I’ve been browsing a lot of these titles again myself.

Arctic Alaska

-The next best thing to being out there in person is probably Buck Nelson’s Alone Across Alaska: 1000 Miles of Wilderness. Don’t be fooled by the fact that this DVD is self-produced—it’s nicely done and Buck a true wilderness traveler with a sense of humor and humility. If I even get to see half the wildlife he encountered on his trip, I shall consider myself lucky. (My route will be a bit different from his.)

-For the excitement of encountering tens of thousands of caribou, there is none better than Karsten Heuer’s Being Caribou: Five Months on Foot with an Arctic Herd. Heuer and his filmmaker wife Leanne shadow the Porcupine herd from their wintering quarters in the Yukon to the calving grounds on the Arctic Coastal Plain. Worth alone the price of the book (or the DVD) is their trip to D.C. afterwards, to lobby for wilderness designation of the calving grounds. (Don’t let it frustrate your political efforts.)

-Subhankar Banerjee’s Seasons of Life and Land, a photographic portrait of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, rooted that place firmly in the public’s mind. Grand shots of wildlife and scenery are trumped by his many winter scenes, which without doubt declared Alaska Senator Murkowski a liar. (“This,” he said holding up a blank piece of cardboard in Congress, “is what AN-WAR’s coastal plain looks like for nine months of the year.”)

-Another, slightly different but no less spectacular photo book is Arctic Sanctuary: Images of the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, by Jeff Jones. No wildlife pictures here, but Jeff’s canvases—shot in a unique panoramic format—perfectly capture the sublime moods, light and forms of arctic landscapes. This book, to which I was honored to contribute a foreword, is part of the celebrations that commemorated the 50th anniversary of the refuge in 2010.

-I can’t leave the politics out of adventure. For a collection of nutshell credos by artists, activists, and—yes—even by politicians about why the refuge matters and needs to be sacrosanct, I recommend Arctic Refuge: A Circle of Testimony. It was rushed to the printer and distributed freely on Capitol Hill to turn the tide of development, at least in one place.

-Alas, 2012 is seeing the eleventh attempt by Alaska congressman Don Young to open the refuge to drilling. More action and awareness are needed. Just in time, and taking into account some of the threats from climate change, comes Arctic Voices: Resistance at the Tipping Point, a compilation similar to Circle of Testimony but with a wider and updated focus. (I will be reviewing this title for High Country News.)

-Although a bit dated, Debbie Miller’s Midnight Wilderness: Journeys in Alaska’s Arctic National Wildlife Refuge remains a good overview of the history and of traveling in the refuge. Debbie used to be a teacher in Arctic Village and guided Jimmy Carter when he visited the refuge.

-As for the classics, there is of course Mardy Murie’s Two in the Far North, her account of growing up in Fairbanks and of meeting Olaus, and battling for wilderness designation for my favorite part of the Arctic.

-Her tracks crossed those of Bob Marshall, who fought for what would become Gates of the Arctic National Park. (He also coined the park’s name after seeing two mountains that face each other on the North Fork of the Koyukuk.) Alaska Wilderness: Exploring the Central Brooks Range chronicles the Wilderness Society’s gestation and Marshall’s obsessive-compulsive hiking in country I also hope to explore.

-At the risk of tooting my own horn too much, I’m including this article I wrote for National Wildlife for the 50th anniversary. It’s a bit heavy on “hard” facts, but numbers have their own power to convince, and it’s an overview for people who don’t have the time to read whole books.

-Lastly, I’d like to mention my anthology Wild Moments: Adventures with Animals of the North. While only some of these essays take place in Alaska’s Arctic, they give a good idea, I think, of the raw power and lasting impact of wildlife encounters. I hope to add many more to my store of memories.

-The only reading material I will be carrying on my Brooks Range Traverse trip is my battered copy of A Sand County Almanac. For me, Aldo Leopold still is the writer who expressed the need for a new land ethic best. Each page in his book and each mile traveled in wilderness remind me of what I cannot live without.

Once you read through some of these titles, get out and see the place for yourself. And if you have other titles you enjoy leave a comment and let us know your favorite book about Alaska Wilderness.

 

 

Arctic Wild Presents:

I had the wrong dates in my previous posting. Here are the correct dates for the Washington State Slideshows. -MW

February 27th, Seattle, WA

Unexplored Alaska

The Sierra Club has invited us to come to Seattle and give a presentation about exploring the Western Brooks Range. Come see pictures of the least visited part of Alaska and learn about the natural history and conservation of the area. Great pictures. Wild stories. Don’t miss it.

For more information contact us or see the posting on FaceBook.  Here is a map if you need directions to REI.

Unexplored Alaska

February 25th, Vashon, WA

Aleutians and Beyond

Join-us at the Vashon Island Land Trust Building at 7 pm for slides and stories from Alaska’s Aleutian Islands. World-traveler Sharon Morris and wilderness guide, Michael Wald will show images from the wild and remote Aleutians. Don’t miss it.

For more information contact us or see the posting on FaceBook.  Here is a map if you need directions to Vashon.

Spread the word.

Aleutian Hot Spring

 

Best Tents for Alaska Camping

What is the best tent for an Alaska camping trip?

The answer depends upon many factors but after decades of wilderness trips around Alaska here are some of our favorites.

Sleeping tents:

Our criteria for a perfect tent is that it must be durable, wind-worthy, warm, easy to set up, and have a good weight to space ratio. We find single wall tents to be too clammy, despite advances in venting and we find the ultra-light tents made mostly of mesh to be miserably cold. Like the search for the perfect boat choosing a tent is full of compromises. The tent with all the features weighs too much to carry but the ultra-light one isn’t enough shelter.

Alaska Camping tents

We list these tents in no particular order:

1) MSR Fury. This small 2 person tent hardly even wiggles even in storm force winds. It gets high marks for warmth and durability and the vestibule is a nice addition. But in building a tent which won’t let the wind in, MSR made a tent that requires some serious flexibility to enter. The tent also lacks venting for those few hot days we get in the Arctic.

2) The Mtn Hardware Trango 3 is a classic tent. It is roomy,  sturdy and quick to set-up. A generous door and vestibule make for good views of the bear snuffling towards camp and the mesh door keeps out the bugs without making the tent too cold. Mtn Hardware had some brittle poles for a couple of years but the quality seems to have improved. If you can haul the 10 pound tent along, it is a good choice.

3) For years we used North Face Talus 2/3 tents almost exclusively and loved them for many reasons. They are compact and light. With two doors and two vestibules they are convenient and comfortable for two people. While they don’t have great headroom, they are bullet-proof in the wind and are the strongest tent for the weight that we know of. Unfortunately, The North Face has made the body of this tent and the similar Big Fat Frog out of mesh for several years, and the tents aren’t warm enough for the arctic. If you can find an older one, or if you can expect warm weather this is still a great tent at a great price.

4) The MSR Holler looks to be just like the now discontinued MSR Mutha Hubba HP. We haven’t tried it yet, but if you are looking for a spacious sturdy and very light tent this may be the tent for you. We can get our family of 4 in the Mutha Hubba tent in reasonable comfort and 2 people can really spread out. The yellow color makes even a downpour seem cheery and it handles the wind admirably. Hopefully when MSR renamed this tent they also used better quality zippers. This tent is too expensive not to last.

Coming soon: The Best Group Shelters aka “Cook Tents”

 

Arctic Wild Presents:

February 27th, Seattle, WA

Unexplored Alaska

The Sierra Club has invited us to come to Seattle and give a presentation about exploring the Western Brooks Range. Come see pictures of the least visited part of Alaska and learn about the natural history and conservation of the area. Great pictures. Wild stories. Don’t miss it.

For more information contact us or see the posting on FaceBook.  Here is a map if you need directions to REI.

February 25th, Vashon, WA

Aleutians and Beyond

Join-us at the Vashon Island Land Trust Building at 7 pm for slides and stories from Alaska’s Aleutian Islands. World-traveler Sharon Morris and wilderness guide, Michael Wald will show images from the wild and remote Aleutians. Don’t miss it.

For more information contact us or see the posting on FaceBook.  Here is a map if you need directions to Vashon.

Spread the word.

 

Bears of the Katmai Coast

Katmai Bears- Trip Report by Michael Wald

Bears of the Katmai Coast July 6- 10 , 2012

Katmai National Park in southwest Alaska has some of the biggest brown bears in Alaska, and with rich salmon streams, sedge meadows and clam beds to feed the bruins, Katmai has more bears than almost any other place in the world. People flock from around the globe to watch and photograph bears in Katmai at places like Brooks Falls and Halo Bay. But Arctic Wild takes you to the wild and quiet parts of Alaska’s parks. For the past couple years we have spent a week in July on a Pacific beach in Katmai that provides superb bear viewing, solitude, and great hiking. Each day of the trip is filled with adventure and activity but the real joy of the trip is in simply living amongst the bears.

Katmai Bears

We set up our weather-worthy camp in the flower covered sand dunes, in an area that the bears don’t often transit, but with a commanding view of the volcano, beach and river mouth. Even if we never left camp, the trip would be satisfying; at each low tide, the bears move from the meadows out onto the beach and scavenge along the tide line. On my last trip to Katmai we saw bears feeding on fish, crabs and even a beach-cast seal all within sight of our camp. When the tide rises, the bears move inland and we can watch them placidly grazing from the dunes behind camp. The vibrant colors of the wildflowers and the glacier cloaked volcanoes make a great background for photographing the bears.

Brown Bear in Katmai National Park

Big, beautiful bears are definitely the highlight of the trip, but Katmai’s coast has so much else to offer. There is a glacier within a days’ walk of camp that you can sometimes hear cracking right from camp. There is beach combing, tide-pooling, and wildflowers galore. There are sea caves, waterfalls, smoking volcanoes, fish-filled ponds, cliffs, tide flats, and seemingly endless rolling tundra. There is no end to the exploration and hiking that we could do in the area.

Katmai Glacier

If you are interested in watching bears in a safe yet truly wild environment, far from the crowds, come camp on Katmai’s coast with us for a week next summer. Read more…. or see some more pictures from our Bears of Katmai National Park trips.