Kobuk River Adventure- Gates of the Arctic National Park

KOBUK RIVER -TRIP REPORT

By Moe Witschard – Guide and Photographer

Moephotography.com

Fishing on the Kobuk River

The floats skimmed the surface of Walker Lake as our float plane dropped us off to begin our 9 day Kobuk River expedition. I was here with 3 clients to float the upper 80 miles of the Kobuk in inflatable canoes and to fish ! The upper Kobuk River is well known for its fishery and we came well equipped with 2 rods per person.

Kobuk RIver Alaska

Our first day was spent exploring and fishing around Walker Lake. We wandered downstream of the outlet to scout the portage around a 200 yd. stretch of class 4 whitewater in the upper Kobuk canyon, which we would negotiate the following day. The upper Kobuk is a fairly moderate river that is Class 1 and 2 for the most part, but in two canyon sections, it breaks from this pattern and thunders into Class 3 and 4 whitewater for short stretches, all of which can be portaged.

After spending a little over an hour carrying all our gear around the upper Kobuk canyon, the fishing began in earnest. The upper river contains an amazing grayling fishery. We stopped half a dozen times each day to fish and caught dozens of large grayling in the 15-20 in. range. Most of these were released unharmed. We always kept a few for dinner….and we ate fish every night.

Paddling the Kobuk RIver

As we made our way down the Kobuk, we got into a Chum Salmon run on a major tributary. They were fun to catch, but they were far enough into the spawning process, that we released each one of them. One day we were fishing in a lagoon off of the river and were surprised to come upon a mass of spawning Mountain Whitefish. These fish live after spawning to spawn again the next year. Though the grayling we had been eating every night were delicious, the Mountain Whitefish upped the culinary ante on the trip.

Kobuk RIver Sheefish

The fishing highpoint came on our final full day on the river. We finally got down into Sheefish country. Sheefish, also known as Inconnu or “Eskimo Tarpon” are incredible fish. They can grow to larger than 40 lbs in the Kobuk River. We fished for them unsuccessfully in 4 different spots that day before we found the “honey hole”.  I was the first one casting and on my 3rd cast, it was game on! When my first Sheefish jumped, I felt like someone had photoshopped a giant fish onto the end of my line. When I landed it, it measured 42 in., we estimated between 30 and 35 lbs. We continued to fish the hole for an hour and quit after 10 Sheefish had been caught and released. We kept the smallest one, at 11 lbs. for dinner. We filetted it and I sautéed it butter with just a little salt and pepper so as to preserve the native flavor of the fish. We all agreed, from a culinary standpoint, it was 5 star.

If you are dreaming of a Brooks Range river trip, and moderate whitewater and fishing are your priorities, the Kobuk River fits the bill quite nicely.

Gray-Headed Chickadee

This June, Arctic Wild will be teaming up with Z-bird Tours for a rafting trip in the Western Brooks Range. Gray-headed chickadeeThe Kugururok River is a great raft trip for many reasons. Our main reason for the trip is to find North America’s hardest to see bird. Recent reports of Gray-headed Chickadees on the Kugururok river, combined with Arctic Wild’s expertise in wilderness travel, and Z-bird’s phenomenal birding abilities, will make this, a trip wilderness birders will be talking about for years.

Here is what Z-Bird’s owner and guide John Puschock has to say about why he is excited to return to the area to get another look a Gray-headed Chickadee.

” Of all the resident bird species in North America north of Mexico, the Gray-headed Chickadee (a.k.a. Siberian Tit) is arguably the most difficult bird to see.  It has a large range in the Old World, inhabiting boreal regions from Scandinavia to eastern Siberia.  In the New World it inhabits only Alaska, Yukon, and the Northwest Territories.  What makes it so difficult to see in North America is that there are almost no roads within its limited range, so just getting to where the birds are is an undertaking.Western Brooks Range, Kugururok RIver

The Gray-headed Chickadee’s preferred habitat is a bit of an enigma.  Various authors say it prefers spruce forest, others a mix of spruce and willow, or just willows.  Even in the Old World, it’s preferences vary from region to region.  In Alaska, it is usually found near isolated cottonwood (poplar) groves along a few north-slope rivers and in mixed scrub near tree-line in the Brooks Range  It’s a cavity nester, often nesting in poplars.
The Gray-headed Chickadee looks similar to Boreal Chickadee, but it’s bigger and has a larger white cheek patch and paler flanks.  The Boreal Chickadee probably evolved from the Gray-headed during the Pleistocene glaciations, and it’s thought that the current New World population is actually the result of the Gray-headed re-entering North America following glaciations.  Competition with the Boreal Chickadee may restrict its range.

Despite their close relationship, there’s no record of the two species hybridizing, which makes an encounter I had in 1998 all the more intriguing: The Kelly Bar on the Noatak River had for years, been the place to go to see the Gray-headed Chickadee, at least up until the mid-1990s.  I was banding birds in Northwest Alaska all summer and  I visited Kelly Bar intermittently.  With each visit I expected to see Gray-heads, but two frustrating months went by with no sightings.

Finally in August I spotted a chickadee with large white cheek patches.  “Finally”, I thought, but then I noticed that it was a colorful bird, as far as chickadees go.  It’s flanks were more like a Boreal Chickadee, with warm tones.  I froze and didn’t look for other field marks, such as white edging on the wing feathers (which would indicate Gray-headed).  I was just trying to comprehend what I was seeing.  And then all too quickly, the bird was gone.  I saw it for only 30 seconds. If I actually saw, what I think I saw, it could have been a hybrid.  But maybe it was a colorful Gray-headed, or a Boreal with more white in the cheek than normal, or maybe my eyes didn’t interpret things correctly.

After 12 years of pondering the brief encounter with the bird, it is time to return and take another look.”

Please join us in June for a fun filled birding adventure.